For Fall 2014 Michael Kors seemed intent on taking the stiffness out of the suit. Devoid of an organized New York-based men’s fashion week–though Kors is a proponent of the idea were it to be held in late January at the end of the current line-up of men’s fashion weeks–the designer held his presentation yesterday.
Every look at the showing came with two rules: no waistbands for any of the pants (they were sometimes trackpants, sometimes sweatpants, but never a structured trouser), and Birkenstocks throughout. The result takes the wind out of the handful of sharp blazers and strict overcoats, softening them in a “Big Sur meets Big City” vibe according to the designer himself.
Of course, as it is Michael Kors, the luxe component is kept up throughout: Backpacks in supple leathers and slouchy beanies–likely made from cashmere–matched with thick knits or double-breasted jackets
Another designer to show their menswear line before the start of NYFW, the design duo Rag & Bone, opted for a different direction than Kors for the season. Instead of mohair sweaters and double-faced cashmere sweatshirts, the pair sent a few bowling shirts down the runway. Though the pieces weren’t a focal point of the collection, they seemed to blend in with the other seemingly blue-collared inspired wares.
Suits were presented with v-neck sweaters and t-shirts in lieu of button downs, while high-waisted pants kept the drop-crotch look, giving them an almost carrot-shaped silhouette, for the most part. Sensible parkas, heavy, totes, and strong outerwear–whose tailoring was a nod back to the constant English influence the brand has always carried–make the collection one of staples presented for “real men,” and as evidenced by some of the gender-swapping on the runway, even some women.